Encyclopédie cosméceutique

Les soins cosméceutiques, à la frontière entre les cosmétiques et les produits pharmaceutiques, sont hautement concentrés en actifs technologiques que l’on utilise également en médecine esthétique pour leur efficacité cliniquement prouvée. Découvrez leur univers.

V

Vitamin E (Tocopherol)

Tocopherol, or Vitamin E, is a fat-soluble substance found naturally in vegetable oils. In cosmetic products, it performs an antioxidant function, useful for preserving the effectiveness of the formula or, at higher dosages, as an active ingredient against free radicals that contribute to skin ageing.

Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)

Vitamin C, or L-Ascorbic Acid, has a fundamental antioxidant function against skin aging. It helps fight against oxidative stress by neutralizing free radicals. Thus, Vitamin C protects the skin from the signs of aging. It also has an anti-dark spot performance, since it regulates the activity of melanocytes and inhibits the diffusion of melanin, to correct pigment spots and prevent their formation and development. Vitamin C being a fragile molecule, sensitive to light and heat, a stabilization process is often essential to reinforce its effectiveness over time.

Vitamin B3 or PP (Niacinamide)

Water-soluble vitamin that inhibits the transport of melanin, thus preventing the appearance of new pigment spots and the extension of those already installed. Niacinamide is also known for its soothing virtue.

Vectorization

Technological process that consists of encapsulating active ingredients to improve their bioavailability or their ability to penetrate into the layers of the skin.

V-Shaping Complex

Combination of 3 active extracts, inspired by remodeling techniques, for a triple anti-aging action: restructuring, lipo-reducing and smoothing.

S

Skin aging

Genetically unavoidable normal physiological process, linked to age and accelerated by overexposure to UV rays (photoaging), which consists of a weakening of the structure of the dermis. On the surface, the skin dries out and wrinkles deepen, the oval of the face sags. In depth, the support fibers of the dermis degrade and are poorly renewed. Gradually, the skin loses its substance and relaxes, wrinkles form.

SPF (Sun Protection Factor)

Index used to estimate the degree of protection offered by a sunscreen. The abbreviation SPF is followed by a number (15, 30, 50, etc.) which represents the ratio between the time required for UVB rays to produce a sunburn with and without sun protection.

Sélénium

Selenium is a precursor trace element of an antioxidant enzyme, Glutathione Peroxidase. It helps fight against free radicals responsible for oxidative stress leading to premature aging. The Swiss Glacier Water that we use is exceptionally rich (180µg/L*). *Chemical analyzes or dosage, study CH-11515-00027 of 01/26/2016.

Scent

A fragrant molecule or composition of natural or synthetic origin. The integration of perfumes in cosmetic products is regulated.

Swiss Glacier Water

Water from the Titlis glacier, formed at an altitude of more than 3200 meters and selected for its natural richness in antioxidant Selenium (180 µg/L*). This age-old water is used in the composition of all Swissclinical products. *Chemical analyzes or dosage, study CH-11515-00027 of 01/26/2016.

Skin barrier

Refers to the stratum corneum (most superficial layer of the epidermis) and the hydrolipidic film that covers it. Acts as a physical barrier protecting against external aggressions.

U

UVB

UVB rays represent 5% of the ultraviolet rays that reach the skin. These very powerful solar rays stimulate the production of melanin and therefore the appearance of tanning. These are the main culprits of sunburn.

UVA

UVA rays, which represent 95% of the ultraviolet rays that reach the skin, are the main causes of skin aging due to the alterations they produce in depth. Present all year round, at all latitudes, these rays even pass through clouds and windows.

T

Tocopherol (Vitamin E)

Tocopherol, or Vitamin E, is a fat-soluble substance found naturally in vegetable oils. In cosmetic products, it performs an antioxidant function, useful for preserving the effectiveness of the formula or, at higher dosages, as an active ingredient against free radicals that contribute to skin ageing.

TiO2

Titanium Dioxide, or TiO2, is a mineral used in sun protection filters. Its reflective power helps protect the skin against UVA and UVB rays.

Transepidermal Water Loss (TWL)

Natural physiological phenomenon of loss of water through respiration or skin evaporation.

Titanium dioxide

Titanium Dioxide, or TiO2, is a mineral used in sun protection filters. Its reflective power helps protect the skin against UVA and UVB rays.

C

Clinical tests

Tests carried out according to protocols developed by a committee of experts, as close as possible to real conditions (in vivo), in order to certify the effectiveness, tolerance and sensoriality of ingredients or cosmetic products.

Cyclopentasiloxane

Polymer that acts as an emollient, that is to say, it helps to loosen the tissues of the skin and make them soft and smooth. Its concentration in cosmetics is regulated.

Cosmeceuticals

Care considered on the border between cosmetics and pharmaceutical products, highly concentrated in technological active ingredients, also used in aesthetic medicine for their clinically proven effectiveness.

Chlorphenesin

Anti-microbial agent recognized for its effectiveness and high tolerance, integrated into cosmetic products to prevent the development of bacteria.

Centelloids

Molecules concentrated in the leaves of Centella asiatica, including Asiaticoside and Madecassoside, with soothing and regenerating properties.

Caffeine

Draining active known for its toning action on the eye contour, especially against dark circles and puffiness. The vectorization technology increases the affinity of caffeine with the skin, for better penetration and therefore effectiveness.

O

Oxidative stress

Oxidative stress, or oxidative stress, corresponds to chemical aggression of cells by free radicals, also called "reactive oxygen species" (Reactive Oxygen Species, ROS). It occurs when there is an imbalance between the amount of free radicals and antioxidants. It is one of the major causes of premature aging of the skin.

Oxidation

Chemical reaction of loss or transfer of electrons by an oxidizing agent giving rise to free radicals. In the skin, these cause chain reactions that cause oxidative stress, leading to premature aging of cells.

Omégas

Fundamental components of the cutaneous barrier, essential to the quality of the skin, Omegas allow maintenance of the hydrolipidic film which limits the loss of hydration. Omega 3s are recognized for their moisturizing and softening action. Omega 7 have a deeper nourishing action.

F

Free radicals

Fragments obtained by splitting a molecule and which have an unpaired electron, which gives them great reactivity. Free radicals are unstable molecules that will react with neighboring molecules, to steal electrons from them and, therefore, self-stabilize. They often cause a chain reaction, which can lead to damage destroying the structures of the skin such as DNA or even collagen and elastin.

Fibroblast

A fibroblast is a precursor cell of connective tissue. These supporting cells are present in the dermis where they produce the components of the extra-cellular matrix like collagen and elastin fibers. They therefore play a fundamental role in maintaining the integrity of the skin.

P

Polyéthylène Glycol (PEG)

PEGs are multi-functional ingredients widely used in cosmetic products. They serve primarily as humectants by retaining water and preventing the skin from drying out. They help dissolve organic components or improve the stability of cosmetic formulas. Their name is formed from the initials PEG followed by a number which corresponds to their molecular weight.

Phénoxyéthanol

Anti-microbial agent recognized for its effectiveness and incorporated into cosmetic products to prevent the development of bacteria. Its concentration in cosmetic products is regulated.

Peptides

Molecule containing at least two amino acid residues connected by a peptide bond (CO-NH). Depending on their type, peptides act on different skin processes, such as: cell proliferation, cell migration, inflammation, melanogenesis, regulation of protein synthesis.

Panthenol (Provitamin B5)

Panthenol, or Provitamin B5, is a precursor of Vitamin B involved in the metabolic processes of skin regeneration. It participates in the strengthening of the hydrolipidic film, improves the elasticity of the skin and promotes cell renewal.

N

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3 or PP)

Water-soluble vitamin that inhibits the transport of melanin, thus preventing the appearance of new pigment spots and the extension of those already installed. Niacinamide is also known for its soothing virtue.

m

melanin

Dark colored pigment responsible for coloring the skin and hair. Synthesized by melanocytes, melanin is present in the epidermis where it plays a fundamental role in protecting the skin against the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation.

E

Extra-cellular matrix (ECM)

Also called intercellular cement, the extra-cellular matrix designates the association of 3 types of macromolecules: fibers (collagen and elastin), glycoproteins and polysaccharides. It plays a fundamental role in the structural support, adhesion and mobility of cells.

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Derived from Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) with enhanced anti-dark spot performance, which inhibits the diffusion of melanin to correct pigment spots and prevent their formation and development.

M

Madécassoside

Centelloid concentrated in the leaves of Centella asiatica, Madecassoside has soothing and regenerating properties.

Microalga extract

Highly purified by biotechnological processes, Nannochloropsis oculata Microalgae Extract stimulates collagen synthesis and exerts an instant and lasting tightening effect.

L

Linalool

Linalool is a fragrant molecule naturally present in almost all essential oils (lavender, thyme, citrus, etc.). It gives perfumes a floral and fresh note. Its concentration in cosmetic products is regulated.

Limonène

Limonene is an odorous molecule naturally present in several essential oils of plants, fruits and vegetables. It gives perfumes a citrusy and fresh note. Its concentration in cosmetic products is regulated.

Low molecular weight (Hyaluronic Acid)

Hyaluronic Acid that penetrates deeper into the skin, stimulating its natural biological activities for targeted action on fine lines and wrinkles.

L-Ascorbic Acid

Vitamin C, or L-Ascorbic Acid, has a fundamental antioxidant function against skin aging. It helps fight against oxidative stress by neutralizing free radicals. Thus, Vitamin C protects the skin from the signs of aging. It also has an anti-dark spot performance, since it regulates the activity of melanocytes and inhibits the diffusion of melanin, to correct pigment spots and prevent their formation and development. Vitamin C being a fragile molecule, sensitive to light and heat, a stabilization process is often essential to reinforce its effectiveness over time.

K

Kératinocyte

Constituent cell of the superficial layer of the skin (epidermis) and appendages (nails, hair, hairs). Keratinocytes synthesize keratin, a fibrous and water-insoluble protein, which ensures the skin's impermeability. They also participate in the protection of the skin against ultraviolet rays thanks to the accumulation of melanin at the level of their cell nucleus.

D

Dermal-epidermal junction

Also called the epidermal basement membrane, the dermal-epidermal junction is the region that separates the dermis and the epidermis. It ensures good cohesion between the epidermis and the dermis to resist physical stress, ensures good communication between the cells of the two skin layers and allows the control of exchanges between cells and certain large molecules.

Disodium EDTA

Disodium EDTA is a substance often essential at low dosages to guarantee the stability and appearance of cosmetic products (coloration, viscosity, etc.).

Diméthicone

Polymer used in cosmetics to produce a non-occlusive, protective surface film providing softness and a smooth finish.

I

In-vivo

Studies carried out on living skin, on a panel of healthy volunteers representative of the population in age and skin type.

H

High molecular weight (Hyaluronic Acid)

Hyaluronic acid which has a great hygroscopic capacity, that is to say of absorption of water molecules, which will allow it to retain up to 1000 times its weight in water to form an invisible film on the surface and maintain skin hydration.

Hydrolipidic film

Protective film covering the entire surface of the skin, consisting mainly of sweat, sebum and water. Its main function is to defend the skin against bacteria. It also allows it to retain suppleness and hydration.

Hyaluronic acid

Molecule naturally present in the skin, also used in aesthetic medicine for its "filler" action, contributing to the tone, elasticity and skin water content.

G

Glycérine

Glycerin (or Glycerol) is a hygroscopic molecule that can absorb up to a quarter of its volume in water. It replenishes the skin's hydration level and limits transepidermal water loss.

e

ex-vivo

Studies carried out on tissues (most often skin explants) taken from healthy volunteers, generally recovered following cosmetic surgery operations. They make it possible to test the activity of a molecule or a cosmetic product under conditions close to reality.

B

Bisabolol

Also called Alpha-Bisabolol, this molecule is recognized for its soothing, moisturizing and protective properties, as well as for its proven effectiveness even at low concentrations. Bisabolol is therefore often used in the composition of care for sensitive and weakened skin.

Bétaïne

Used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and soothing power. Synthesized by certain plants, Betaine participates in the restoration of the hydrolipidic film in order to prevent dehydration.

A

Asiaticoside

Centelloid concentrated in the leaves of Centella asiatica, Asiaticoside soothes the skin and participates in the regeneration of the cell matrix, for a lasting restructuring effect.

Antioxidant

Antioxidants are vitamins (A, C, E), minerals (Selenium, Zinc), carotenoids or polyphenols that neutralize free radicals. The latter are responsible for cellular damage, particularly on DNA, thus leading to a loss of radiance and premature aging of the skin. Antioxidants therefore have a protective action against external aggressions that dull the complexion, as well as a preventive anti-aging action.

Alpha-Bisabolol

Bisabolol, or Alpha-Bisabolol, is recognized for its soothing, moisturizing and protective properties, as well as for its proven effectiveness even at low concentrations. Bisabolol is therefore often used in the composition of care for sensitive and weakened skin.

Allantoin

Naturally present in the human body, Allantoin is a biomimetic molecule known for its moisturizing and soothing properties.